Semana Santa

This past weekend, Alex and I traveled to Andalusia, the southernmost region of Spain. We were granted Friday and Monday off of language school because of Semana Santa (Holy Week) so we hit the road. Plus, rumor has it that the people of Andalusia celebrate Semana Santa like no one else. We just had to see if this was true.

Friday morning, we rose early (by Spanish standards) and boarded an AVE train, Spain’s version of highspeed rail. Miraculously, three short hours later we were disembarking in Sevilla, the capital city of Andalusia! I seriously love the public transportation options in Europe.

Interesting bit of trivia… Kansas City, Missouri is the sister city of Sevilla, Spain. We remembered the connection when we stepped out of the train and saw that Sevilla’s Santa Justa train station sits on a road called Avenida Kansas City. Later, while shopping, we learned that the Country Club Plaza of Kansas City is modeled after Sevilla. Small world, getting smaller!

Feeling a bit nostalgic, as we spent two lovely years in Kansas City, and armed our Sevilla travel guide, we headed toward the city center to eat lunch and find our accommodations.

Downtown Sevilla is slightly touristy, but beautiful. The streets are a mix of brick and stone and ceramic tile. Many buildings are ornately decorated with deep blues, golds, and oranges; the architecture is reminiscent of Moorish occupation 800 years ago. Such rich history in every nook and cranny! Of course, there are ultra modern parts of the city, but that’s no fun, right?!

Mid-afternoon, without much warning, we ran into our first of many Semana Santa processions. We were able to watch the procession in its entirety, and make several observations about the religious and now cultural phenomenon prominent throughout Spain.

For hundreds of years, Catholic brotherhoods and fraternities throughout Spain, and most intensely in Andalusia, have enacted the Passion of Christ via penance processions in the streets. As we observed this past weekend, a procession can last anywhere from three hours to twelve hours, and commences as follows. First, Nazarenos, or penitents in long robes and full masks, walk a predetermined route down the street with candles, incense, and various relics. Next comes a paso, an ornate float, depicting Jesus during one specific experience of the Passion. For example, the procession we first watched was Jesus on the cross with the two thieves. As Jesus’ paso passes, onlookers are silent; some people are moved to tears. After the moment with Jesus, more Nazarenos walk with candles, incense, etc. Finally, a paso with Mary comes, signifying hope. Some processions include marching bands and fleets of adorable children. Some are entirely somber and silent. Sevilla has over 60 of these processions throughout Semana Santa, each embodying a different scene of the Passion.

I posted a few pictures below, because my words don’t seem to do the experience justice.

Alex and I have both reflected on the experience and have mixed feelings. The fact that an entire country comes together and remembers the Passion of Christ is quite impressive. The pasos depict stories straight out of the Gospels and Apocrypha and are downright gorgeous. (Bedazzled with gold and jewels and the largest candles I have every seen!) We were moved by the scenes, and of penitents and children hiding their faces in remembrance during this dark week in Jesus’ life. However, so much emphasis was placed on Jesus’ death and very little on His resurrection. The real show begins on Sunday! But the streets were empty and the holiday festivities were over.

Sort of sounds like Christmas in the United States?!

So I hope this post doesn’t sounds like a rant, because in total, the experience was amazing! We were also able to squeeze in some enormous ancient buildings in between processions, like the Royal Alcazar, in existence long before the New World was a twinkle in Christopher Columbus’ eye! And we ended our Semana Santa by spending Pascua (Easter) worshipping with hundreds of believers at the Sevilla Cathedral, the largest Gothic church in the world. Beautiful church, but more importantly, beautiful story.

He is Risen!

Alex-sized meal of paella. 

The first of many Jesus pasos. 

Mary paso. 

Somber Nazarenos with candles. 

More Nazarenos. 

My tour guide of all things ancient and cool. 

The Royal Alcazar 

Me gusta mucho! 

P.S. Our trip did not end in Sevilla, but the story of Cordoba will be told later!